Wednesday, 4 July 2012

Along the Coast of Death

Since being forced back on our first attempt to beat around Cabo Finisterre we've had no wind for sailing, meaning a longish motor along the length of the Coast of Death where frequent fog and many rocks can make an unpleasant combination for sailors. It's a beautiful dramatic coast but with few refuges for boats.

We holed up a week in the Ria Camariñas, a lovely Ria and the best shelter along the Costa de la Muerte. Great hiking around the area and a very friendly bar/cafe at the marina. We treated ourselves to a few days in the marina, making the most of the shower facilities, and then moved out to the anchorage just in time to sit out a hard southwesterly gale.

The holding was good, once the anchor punched through a thick layer of weed to the mud below, but several boats dragged during the peak of the storm, some re-anchoring, some relocating to the marina for the duration. When we eventually hauled anchor, it brought with it the most almighty clump of assorted weed we've seen yet.

Fog rolling in over one of the many wind farms
Carpets of wild flowers along the foggy Coast of Death
The fog bank rolled in most afternoons
Cabo Vilan lighthouse just visible
Gorse and wild flowers along the coastal path
The heather's in bloom
The biggest winkles we've ever collected
Despite any rumours you may have heard to the contrary, the Rias Altas are just as beautiful as their southern counterparts. We're now in Ares, just to the east of La Coruña and back in company with the Kodiaks, with whom we took a long walk yesterday across to the Ria Ferrol. Ferrol is quite spectacular, guarded by a narrow entrance flanked by ancient fortresses that has historically made an impregnable refuge for the Spanish navy. Following a weekend visit to Coruña, we're aiming to check out the anchorages of Ferrol before ambling on eastwards.

Mugardos in Ria de Ferrol
The scenic part of Ria de Ferrol
Coastal path near Ares
Ria de Ares

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